This article submitted by
Brad Trethewey and his spot-nosed guenon, Trouble
and written by Madeline Darrow in 1975
This Monkey Care was given to me to share by Charlie Smith in 1993. I
recommend before trying any medical advice to consult a veterinarian
experienced with primates first. Some of the suggestions maybe out of
date. My intent on sharing this with you is not to scare you from
getting a monkey, but to inform you what is involved if you make the
decision to be a caretaker for a monkey. My experience with Trouble
which is over five years with him has me agreeing much of what it
written here. Key note is this was written for the monkey's sake.
Table of Contents:
SHOULD YOU BUY A MONKEY????
MONKEY OWNERSHIP IN GENERAL
MEDICAL AND FIRST AID
CAPTIVITY INFIRMITY
CARE OF INFANTS
NUTRITION
SHOULD YOU BUY A MONKEY????
Many people are enchanted by their human
characteristics, and indeed they have many such. They can be lovable,
affectionate, dependent, energetic, enthusiastic and entertaining.
However, they can also be despondent, morose, aggressive and down right
dangerous. They often have quick tempers, can sulk and pout and hold
grudges, be independent, insolent, indifferent to training and
occasionally vindictive. Yes, they are very much like humans!
Present
Federal Legislation makes the
importation of Simians for the pet trade illegal, and the sale of
simians in pet-shops without a federal permit also illegal. Only for
research, zoos and breeding colonies will their importation and sale be
sanctioned. Many States also have legislation passed and pending
requiring permits, some costing $100.00 a year, to keep a monkey that
you already own. These laws apply to many other exotic pets as well. So
far private owners have not been forbidden to sell or put up for
adoption a pet they presently own though it may come to that. Gibbons
can not be transferred to new owners in some States now.
If you still
can acquire a monkey somewhere legally be sure that you understand what
you are getting into. Monkeys most available today are the:
MONKEY OWNERSHIP IN GENERAL
Do not bring a monkey home without a cage to put him in. A monk
brought into new surroundings will usually be very frightened and will
need the sense of security that his own cage can give him. Practically
no monkey should be given complete freedom. When out of his cage he
should be watched, because even a little squirrel can open a kitchen
cabinet and empty packages. of flour, sugar, coffee, etc., into piles
on the floor or poison himself on bleaches, disinfectants, nutmegs or
pills. Also such house plants as colius, poinsettias or crown-of-thorns,
and such decorations as holly and mistletoe can kill him.
His cage
should be large enough so that he can climb and swing and play, and
therefore you must consider his size and how much he will grow. If you
so not have the room for a large cage be sure you get a small monkey.
NO bird cage is suitable for a monkey no matter how small, and
capuchins and the larger species need very strong cages made with heavy
turkey wire or chain link. He should have shelves, a heavy rope or
length of hose to swing on (never use chain or a thin rope which can
strangle him) and a sleeping box or hammock. The latter should be made
of some heavy material as anything which can ravel out or tear can also
get wrapped around a hand or foot stopping circulation. Or around his
neck causing his death. Capuchins especially wrap things around their
necks and have strangled on Venetian blind cords, neckties, raveled
pieces of old towels etc.
Some states are now setting minimum cage
sizes, for the larger you can make it the better. However, keep in mind
that you must clean it daily and disinfect it at least weekly. Make
sure that the cage is so placed that it is not in a draft nor too close
to a radiator or register that may deliver too much heat. See to it
that there is enough humidity. Too dry a heat in winter can kill it. Do
not subject it to sudden drops in temperature, which can cause a cold
that may develop into pneumonia. On the other hand if you live in the
warm states, don't take it from an air-conditioned house into a hot
day, they get heat stroke. If put outside be sure he has water that he
can not spill, and shade. A monk can die of sun-stroke in a half hour.
Don't leave him at any place where he hasn't something to climb up to
get away from strange dogs or "strange people" who sometimes have been
known to harm monkeys left out alone. Be very careful of what sort of
leash you use if you fasten him out, that he can not get it twisted
around his neck. A waist collar or cat harness is preferable to a neck
collar for safety reasons, and the leash should be connected to a
swivelling ring so that he won't just wrap it around and round the
post. The best place for him outside is in a large cage or pen. Don't
let a monkey wonder at will outside. They can eat twigs and leaves of
cherry or elderberry, rhododendron or laurel, oleander, wisteria and
yew, all of which can kill them. In a vegetable garden the foliage of
rhubarb, tomato and potato plants are also poisonous. Monkeys can climb
up a power pole and be electrocuted. They can run out into traffic and
get struck by a car. They can stray into some neighboring property and
be shot as a dangerous animal, or killed by a dog. All these things
have happened to pet monkeys.
If he should escape, don't run after him
or let other people try to help by chasing him. Have someone watch
where he goes and quickly get some favorite food, a paper bag and a
mirror or some shiny object. Sit where he can see you looking in the
bag and taking out food, flash the mirror or tin can around and usually
his curiosity will bring him down to you.
Should you have a baby monkey
it should be carried as much as possible. If you must leave it in its
cage, give it a stuffed toy or tightly hemmed piece of blanket or terry
cloth as a substitute mother. A hammock of man-made sheepskin which is
used in hospitals to prevent bed-sores is ideal. It can be bought in
the medical supply stores or drug stores that keep such supplies, and
while it is expensive it can be washed day after day and look like new,
and it cannot be torn or shredded by little "steel fingers". It can be
used to line a hanging basket instead of a hammock which will swing
gently and make the little one feel "mother" is alive and real. This
"sheepskin" is also excellent for sick monks, for those so immobilized
by rickets they can only lie, or for padding cages of epileptic
simians.
Many babies under a year old perish during the first few
months of captivity, and the younger they are, the less chance they
have for survival. It is very important to watch carefully for any sign
of illness because a monk is often dangerously sick before it is
obvious. Nearly all young monkeys can be diapered and dressed but about
85 percent of these will not permit it when mature, so keep this in
mind. Monkeys do not like to have a soiled diaper on, and some learn to
wait until they go back to their cages to relieve themselves, and in
time can come out without a diaper and go back to their cage when
necessary. Complete "housebreaking" is usually impossible.
Diapers can
be make with a tai-hole bound with elastic thread or having two or
three inches of absorbent material sewn in to form a little sleeve down
the tail to prevent leakage. Disposable diapers can be used with tabs
in front, taking one corner and crossing it over around the monk so
that it fastens to the opposite side of the back. Ditto with the other
corner, and you have a pretty leak proof diaper.
If you have to tame a
monkey, take advantage of its natural curiosity. He is afraid, but if
you hold something shiny or bright colored in your hands and play with
it, he usually comes to see and soon plays with your fingers, looks at
your rings or watch etc. They even like to check your teeth. Don't wear
glasses or earrings around a new or strange monkey.
Some monkeys can be
handled by their tails, though most don't like it at first. Start by just
stroking the tail, then holding it lightly, and finally it will allow
you to use the tail as a handle
Find a veterinarian who will treat
monkeys and who under- stands their problems or a pediatrician who will
cooperate this isn't always easy. Also if possible find someone willing
to care for him if some emergency should arise, or should you want or
need to be away for a while. In general monkeys are not good traveling
companions.
There is no firm answer to the question "which makes a
better pet, male or female?" All simians are individuals, but as a rule
the males of larger species become more difficult to handle. It has
been said "The only good monkey is a sick monkey." No two are just alike
and dogmatic statements about them just cannot be made.
MEDICAL AND FIRST AID
CAPTIVITY INFIRMITY
Malnutrition is the No.1 killer
of pet monkeys and is caused largely by their being held in captivity
without receiving the foods necessary for their health. Often the first
sign of this dangerous and common ailment that is noticed is the
inability to walk on all fours. It is not natural for a monkey to
"scoot" (that is to shuffle along in a sitting position) or to crawl on
its knees and elbows.
However, there are other danger signals that
indicate the condition: eyes that protrude more than normal, a mouth
that doesn't close completely, a tongue that protrudes a bit, too many
or too few teeth. There may be bowed, stiff or too short arms and legs,
a slight hump-back, inability to open and close fingers or toes, bony
knobs on wrists, and sometimes tics (involuntary jerking movements) or
seizures that seem a type of epilepsy. This condition develops in young
newly imported monkeys who are suffering from the shock of captures,
infections picked up from others crammed into the same crate or cage
and parasites that might do it no harm in the wild state but now can
prove serious.
Infant monkeys who would still be nursing cannot
properly digest the sort of food thrown to them, and so arrive half
starved and dehydrated; and older ones, who they stand a better chance,
are on the verge of this disease which is basically rickets. They must
have good nourishing food at once, and most important they must have
Vitamin D and a calcium supplement. The purpose of Vitamin D is to aid
in the absorption of Calcium and their lack causes rickets. The amount
of D should be increased at least three times the regular dosage if
rickets is present, but be careful that you check the product you are
using to see that you do not give too much Vitamin A. It might be safer
to use a supplement containing D alone and calcium separately if the
monk is badly crippled. If D3 in powder form is used, do it only under
supervision of a veterinarian or doctor and do not over do it, as it
can permanently damage the kidneys or cause death. In addition to the D
and calcium, a good multiple vitamin should be used as all are needed-
but never overdose.
Sometimes when malnutrition is obviously present,
hyperparathyroidism has already developed. This simply means the
parathyroid glands keep pulling calcium from the bones to keep the
calcium in the blood in a ratio of 2 parts calcium to 1 part
phosphorus. Once they start, the parathyroids don't stop stealing
calcium from the bones so that supplements must be continued or
osteoporosis (adult rickets) results. Also calcium deposits may occur
in vital organs as a result of this condition interfering with their
function and causing early death. Some supplements available are: Cod
Liver Oil Concentrate (White Laboratories) which is Vit. D in tablet
form 400 Int. units per tablet. This has too much A if given in
markedly increased dosage for rickets. Drisdol (Winthrop) containing no
Vit. A but only 200 units per drop so dosage must be double that of
products containing 400 units. Multi-vitamins; Avitron (Lambert-Kay),
Vi Daylin (Abbot), Unicap (Upjohn), Poly-Vi-Sol (Meade-Johnson, drops
or chewable tablets).
CARE OF INFANTS
An infant should
be offered nourishing foods and encouraged to eat every two hours.
Foods should include fortified baby formula marketed for humans. Never
give a newly imported monkey any type of cow's milk. Wait until he is
older and has gained strength, and it can be determined whether he can
digest it. Some can and some never will be able to. Feed baby foods and
dry baby cereals mixed with formula or fruit juice. Boiled chicken is
one of the best foods you can offer. Give only distilled water at first
because any change of water may cause diarrhea.
Don't try to handle a
baby monkey if he is afraid. Let him have his substitute "mother" in
his cage, and allow him to come to you when he is ready. Sometimes he
will attach himself to you and refuse to let go. If this happens, how
lucky you are! A monkey has adopted you, which works out much better
than your adopting a monkey who is afraid of you. Let him cling and
don't let him feel abandoned. Remember in the jungle a deserted baby
would soon be dead, and his instinct seem to tell him so. However, if
he is timid at first, talking to him softly and offering food or little
things to play with should soon win him over. Put a mirror just outside
his so that he will see the monkey in the glass and feel less alone.
NUTRITION
A balanced diet is as important to a simian as to a human and should contain daily some foods from the four basic nutritional groups:
A monkey should not be fat, which can damage his heart and liver. He should, if his weight appears right, eat 4 precent of his weight a day. Don't forget also that he needs vitamin supplements. Fresh water should always be available, small loaf pans can be fastened in a cage with butterfly nuts or clamps. Hamster bottles for small monks and quart size water bottles can be fastened to the outside of the cage, if the mesh or bars are not such that he can reach out and dismantle it. Food trays, too, should be fastened or they will be spilled. Box type wire holders can be made. It's up to your ingenuity to find the best way for your monkey, but it isn't easy. In fact nothing is easy in sharing your life with a simian or with several, but it can be a wonderful experience.